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Saturday, October 8, 2016

Buyers Approved Textile Testing Laboratories

Most of the Garments and Textile industries around the world are 100% export oriented. They export their textile and garments products to other countries. While trendy designs and incomparable colors may preliminary sell a garment, it’s final the quality and safety that will confirm customer loyalty, generate repeat business, and maintain a brands value. That is why like other products, before exporting Textile Manufacturing Companies should have their testing reports to make sure of their qualities. So the manufacturers have to send their products sample to the third party laboratories to get their products certificate for exportation. These third party labs should be Buyers Approved. There are many third party labs around the world which are buyer approved. Such as Bureau Veritas, SGS, ITS etc.

Textile Testing Labs

The Following Labs Deliver Various Types of services like Auditing, Certification, Classification, Consulting, Inspection, Outsourcing, Quality Assurance and Quality Control, Testing and Analysis, Training, Constructions and Engineering, Food and Health Care, Transportation, Agriculture, Chemicals etc. but I’ll just discuss the Labs summary and TextileTesting
  • SGS
  • Bureau Veritas (BV)
  • Intertek Testing Service (ITS)
  • Modern Testing Services (MTS)
  • TÜV Rheinland.
  • UL
  • Consumer Testing Laboratories (CTL)
SGS is the world’s leading Inspection, Verification, Testing and Certification Company. It’s headquartered in Geneva, Switzerland.  Now has more than 85,000 employees and operates over 1,800 offices and laboratories worldwide. Its total revenue in 2015 was 5.412 billion Swiss Franc.

It provides services like Audit, Certification, Consultancy, Inspection, Outsourcing, Testing, Training, and Verification. It provides services to Agriculture & Food, Automotive, Aviation, Chemical, Construction, Consumer Goods & Retail, Energy, Finance, Industrial Manufacturing, Life Sciences, Logistics, Mining, Oil & Gas sectors.

SGS provides a wide range of services to the Textile and Apparel sector of the Softline and Accessories Industry. SGS services in the Textiles and Apparel sector include:
  • Audits and certification
  • Eco-design
  • Inspection
  • Testing                                
Bureau Veritas Consumer Product Service Ltd.
Bureau Veritas was founded in 1828 and is called the world leader in Certification, Inspection and Testing services. It’s headquarter is in Neuilly-sur-Seine, Paris, France. At the end of 2016, the group has more than 67,000 employees in more than 1,400 offices and laboratories located in 141 countries. The total revenue of this company was near about 4.6 billion Euros in 2015.

It provides the services like Auditing, Certification, Classification, Consulting, Inspection, Outsourcing, Quality Assurance and Quality Control, Testing, Analysis and training. The Large or small organizations like Aerospace, Agriculture and Food, Automotive, Chemicals and Petrochemicals, Construction and Real Estate, Government and Public, Industrial and Manufacturing, Marine, Mining, Oil and Gas, Power generation, Retail and Consumer Goods, Transport and Infrastructure can rely on Bureau Veritas to support them in protecting their respective brands, assets and business.

Bureau Veritas provides all types of Textile and Apparel testing services like Physical, RSL, Colorfastness, Dimension, Appearance, Flammability, Fibre and all relevant tests on items ranging from fabric samples to finished products for all age grades like Active wear, Swimwear, Beachwear, Exercise wear, Outerwear, Casual and Formal dresses, Trims and Accessories, Care labeling etc.

Intertek Testing Service
Intertek is the trusted provider of quality and safety solutions for many of the world’s leading brands and companies. It’s headquarter is in London, United Kingdom. It was founded in 1888 and now it has more than 40,000 employees in 1,000 locations in over 100 countries. In 2015 its total revenue was 2.167 billion Euros.

It provides services like Inspection, Product Testing and Certification. It provides services to Chemicals, Constructions and Engineering, Energy and Commodities, Food and Healthcare, Government and Trade, Products and Retail, Transportation sectors.

Intertek’s tailored solutions help brands, retailers and manufacturers of Textile, Apparel and Home Textile by ensuring the products performance, safety and quality. Intertek’s services in the field of Textile and Apparel are listed below:
  • Accessory Testing
  • Active wear Testing
  • Apparel Testing
  • Auditing and Systems Certification
  • Care Labeling
  • Chemical Smart Screening
  • Children’s Textile and Apparel Testing
  • CPSIA Testing
  • Footwear Testing
  • GB 18401 Testing
  • Softlines Testing
  • Trim Qualification Programme
Modern Testing Services
Modern Testing Services is a global and strategic partner for rapid, exact and cost effective quality assurance execution in the consumer products industry. MTS Headquarters, Eden Prairie, Minnesota U.S.A. MTS provides the services like Hazardous Chemical Management, Hardlines Testing, Softlines Testing, Toys, Arts and Craft Testing, Factory Compliance Audit and Inspection.

MTS has mass capabilities to cover such the areas like bulk fabric, preproduction garments, and children’s sleepwear testing. MTS also provides testing service for Home Textiles, Curtains, Bedding, Upholstery and many more. In addition with physical, RSL and Colorfastness it also provides testing services for performance and special claims. The most common testing criteria for Textile and Clothing are listed below:
  • Fibre Labeling
  • Care labeling and Care Label development
  • Performance abrasion and pilling
  • Seam strength tests
  • Colorfastness evaluations
  • Dimensional stability, Skewness, Stretch and Recovery
  • Fabric constructions, Fibre ID and Fabric weight
  • Flammability
  • Specials claims like Waterproof, Wind proof, Antibacterial, Antimicrobial
TÜV SÜD is one of the world's leading technical service organizations was founded in 1866 and Headquartered in Munich, Germany. Today it has more than 24,000 employees across more than 800 locations in the world. It has earned 2.2 billion Euros in 2015.
TÜV SÜD is a third party service corporation focusing on consulting, testing, certification and training. The most common testing features for Textile and Clothing are listed below:
  • California Proposition 65
  • Chemical Testing
  • Flammability
  • GB Testing
  • REACH Testing
  • RSL
TÜV Rheinland
TUV Rheinland was founded in 1872 and has grown from a local testing organization into one of the world’s leading testing service providers. Now days the company conducts with own companies globally. It is working for the quality and safety with new technologies in new sectors. The company has a workforce of 19,300 people in 69 countries all around the world. It has earned 1.88 billion Euros in 2015.

It provides services in the field of Construction and Real Estate, Consulting, Information Security, Education and Personnel, Management system, Materials Testing and Inspection, Occupational Safety and Health, Plants and Machinery, Product Testing, Vehicles and Traffic.

Today, near about 7,000 chemicals are used in textile and apparel, including dyeing agents, anti-creasing agent, or even to protect against mold during transport. It ensures the quality of products with their lab testing services. They have also an accredited auditing body which inspect and certify textiles for harmful substance content and any physical, qualitative characteristics.

UL is the first global exclusive safety science company that has gained progress for more than 120 years. It has more than 11,000 employees are trained by the UL mission to promote safe working and living environments for all people. Its core services are certification, testing, inspection, advisory and education.

UL quality assurance specialists are partner with textile and Clothing companies to address product regulatory requirements, performance and quality through textile testing and analysis. The most common testing features for Textile and Clothing are listed below:
  • Performance and Special Claim related tests
  • Physical and Mechanical testing
  • Chemical Analysis
  • Flammability
  • Home Textiles
  • Accessories
  • China GB testing
  • Fibre Analysis
  • Colorfastness
  • CPSC requirements for lead and Phthalates
  • California proposition 65
  • Dimensional Stability and Durability
Consumer Testing Laboratories
Consumer Product Laboratories was established in 1952 and is independent and privately owned Company. It is conducting all of its testing and relevant services from its own facilities.

CTL offers a wide range of testing services for any types of men's, women's and children's clothing and accessories such as casual, outerwear, swimwear, socks, handbags and gloves. CTL offers the following Textile and Apparel testing services:
  • Colorfastness
  • Dimensional Stability and Appearance Testing
  • Flammability
  • Fibre Composition
  • Fabric Construction
  • Physical
  • Total Lead
  • Phthalates
  • Formaldehyde
  • Nickel
  • PH
  • Toxics in Packaging

Saturday, July 16, 2016

Key Responsibilities of a Garments Merchandiser

Introduction to Garments Merchandising

At first we need to understand the term “Garments Merchandising”. “Garment” is an alternative term of apparel or cloth which we need to wear in our everyday life all over the world and “Merchandising” means developing, producing buying and selling of any goods or products or services for the local or international market. So, “Merchandising” is the bridge between the buyer and seller. If we combine this English two terms “Garments Merchandising” then the meaning of garments merchandising becomes like the following definition.

All the activities involved in procuring export order of any garment of any particular design for a specific quantity, analysis of the garment requires producing the garments, production scheduling & exporting the garments within fixed time frame may be called garments merchandising.
From the above definition of garments merchandising it can be clearly said that procuring a garments export order that is export L/C, production of those products as per buyers satisfaction within limited time is not an easy task. The activities which are involved in garments merchandising is normally done by an experienced & expert person called garments merchandiser. “Garments Merchandiser” is the most important key person of garments production & garments export sector.

Role of a Garments Merchandiser

The main role of Garments merchandiser is to collect garments export order (Export L/C), produce the garments, export the garments on time & earn profit for the organization. To perform those functions successfully need lots of knowledge, experience & tremendous effort for a Merchandiser.

Duties & responsibilities of a Garments Merchandiser

     ·         To procure or collect an export garments order.
     ·         To estimate the time action (T&A) plan to export of those garments as per limited fixed time.
     ·         To ensure the booking of raw materials (Fabric & other trims) placed to the supplier needed for the garments to manufacture and export.
     ·         Checking Proforma Invoice (PI) and term of payments properly given by the supplier.
     ·         Placing the PI for opening Back to Back L/C to give payment to the supplier.
     ·         To monitor the collection of raw material as per the T&A plan.
     ·         To ensure the quantity & quality of raw material collected from supplier.
     ·         Following the sampling process strongly as the export order totally depends on it.
     ·         To select the garments factory if needed.
     ·         To monitor the garments production progress as per T&A plan.
     ·         To monitor the desired quality level of the produced garments.
     ·         To monitor garments packing instruction.
     ·         To monitor the shipment arrangements as per T&A plan.
     ·         To maintain continuous liaison with buyer.

Asst. Merchandiser
Ha-Meem Group

You may Like also: Merchandising: The magic word

Saturday, June 18, 2016

Garment Washing Symbols and Meanings

When we buy a garment it looks nice and ok but when we use it, it becomes dirty day by day and becomes unfit to wear. So to wear it again, we’ve to clean it. Then the questions come in our mind that how we will clean it and iron it so that the dresses become ready to wear. Then we search for garments care instructions. The care instructions are given by the care symbols attached with the garment.

Clothing Care Label

Garment Care Label is a label by which we can take care of a garment. In a garment care label we can see many care instructions. When we want to clean a garment we should follow the care instructions. It defines the machine wash should be warm, normal cycle or the garment should be tumble dry low or just tumble dry etc.

The apparel manufacturers attach the care symbols in care label which suits the best for a garment. Before attaching a care label the apparel is tested under different tests for care instructions like Dimensional stability, Appearance after laundering or dry cleaning, Colorfastness to Actual Laundering or Dry Cleaning, Colorfastness to laundering: Accelerated, Colorfastness to crocking, Bleaching and Ironing. When the garment passes under these tests, the care instructions are fixed for the garment.

Now I’ll describe the Garment Washing Symbols and Meanings in AATCC methods as below Images –

Washing Care Symbols and their meanings –

Apparel Washing Care Symbols

Bleaching Care Symbols and their meanings –

Garment Bleaching Care Symbols

Drying Care Symbols and their meanings –

Garment Drying Care symbols

Ironing Care Symbols and their meanings –

Garment Ironing Care Symbols

Dry Cleaning Care Symbols and their meanings –

Garment Dry Cleaning Care Symbols

Friday, June 10, 2016

Different types of Textile Testing methods

Most of the people among us have heard the different types of Textiles and Garments Brand and Buyer name like CK, Dockers, Kohl’s, Kmart, H&M, C&A, Levi’s, Gymboree, American Eagle, Gap, Walmart etc. I would like to inform you that Walmart, Inditex, Gap, Levi’s, American Eagle, PVH, H&M, Esprit, S. Oliver, Mothercare, C&A, George etc. are the top Garments Buyer in the world. These Buyers produce their products with their own brands name and also with other brands name. Such as, H&M produces their products with their own brand name H&M. PVH produces their products with their own brand name PVH, CK and also different brands name like JC penny, Kohl’s, GH Bass etc.

Different Textile Testing Methods

Different buyers use different Textile testing methods. Most of the American Buyers like JC Penny, Target, Walmart USA, Carter’s, Kohl’s, Bass Pro Shop, Marks Work Wear House, LF USA, SHGS, Shopko Lands End etc. use AATCC methods and rest others like Levi’s, Gap, Gymboree, American Eagle etc. use both AATCC and ISO methods. The European Buyers like Mothercare, Koton, George, Esprit, Siplec, s. Oliver, Tom Tailor etc. use BS/ISO methods. Some Buyers like H&M, C&A, M&S use their own methods. Some buyers like Best and Less uses Australian methods, Walmart Canada uses Canadian methods.

Details about different types of Textile Testing methods

There are different types of Textile and Garments Testing methods such as –
  • American Society of Testing &Materials (ASTM)
  • American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)
  • International Organization for Standardization (ISO)
  • European Norms (EN)
  • British Standards (BS)
  • British Standards for European Nations (BS EN) 
  • Deutsches Institut fur Normung (DIN) 
  • Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS)
  • Japanese Industrial Standards (JIS) 
Now I’ll describe some of the above methods as below table for example and for your clarification –

Test Methods
Brief Description
Fibre analysis. This method is used to identify the fibres used in Textile products. In this method chemical, physical and microscopical techniques are used.
Colorfastness to crocking. This method is used to identify the amount of color transferred from dyed textile surface to another surface due to abrasion.  
ASTM D1683
Seam Strength. This test method is used to determine the seam strength in woven garments by applying a force perpendicular to the sewn seams.
ASTM D2594
Stretch Properties. This test method is used to determine the stretch and growth of knitted fabrics composed of Lycra.
ISO 3071: 2006
pH value of Textile. This test method is used to determine the pH value in the Textile materials.
ISO 14184-1 : 2011
Formaldehyde content in Textile. This method is applied to test Textiles in any form to determine the total amount of free formaldehyde in Textiles.
EN 14689
Leather. This method is applied to leather products for physical and mechanical tests to determine bagginess, creep and relaxation.
BS 3424-5:1982
Coated fabrics test method. Methods are 7A, 7B and 7C. This method is used to determine the tear strength of coated fabrics.
BS 4098:1975
This test method is used to determine the comparison, thickness and recovery characteristics of floor coverings made of Textiles.
BS EN 13542:2001
This test method is used to determine the compressibility of quilted Textiles.
BS EN 13895:2003
Monofilament Textiles. This test method is used to determine the tensile properties of Textiles made of monofilament yarns.
BS EN ISO 9073-4:1997
Non-woven Textiles. This test method is used to determine the tear resistance of Non-Woven Textiles.
BS EN ISO 105-E01:2013
Colorfastness to water. This test method is used to define the amount of color transferred from dyed textiles in presence of water.
JIS L 1041:2011
Formaldehyde content in Textiles. This test method is used to determine the amount of formaldehyde content in Textiles.