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Saturday, December 3, 2016

Textile Testing Process in a Third Party Lab

Textile Testing is an Important Part for a Textile Company as they need a quality certificate to export their Textile or Garment Products. It’s a Buyer requirement that the products they buy from different Garment Companies should meet their product criteria and quality. So here the question arises, where and how the products should be tested. Is it in the In-house lab of Manufacturing Company or in a Third party lab.

Tests can be done in the In-house lab of a Manufacturing Company or in a buyer approved Textile Testing Company. In the development stage, most of the tests are done in the in-house labs to develop the products quality. But it is necessary to send the products to a Third Party lab for testing to get the products testing certificate. The tests can be done in the Development stage or in the Production stage or in the both stage according to the Buyers requirement.

Some In-house labs and Tests are accredited by some Buyers. So the accredited tests are no longer need to be tested in the Third Party Testing Labs. After verifying, some European Buyers give accreditation to the in-house labs of the Manufacturing Companies and a very few Manufacturing Companies get accreditation from American Buyers.

Now we will learn how Textile Testing is done in the Third party Testing Labs –
There is so far difference between an In-house lab and a Third party lab. In a Third party lab, there are many departments. The departments are as follows –
  • Customer Service
  • Login
  • Test Assign
  • Big Cut and Break Down
  • Soft lines
  • Analytical or RSL
  • Reporting
Customer Service
It is the very first department where the Testing samples are received for testing. The Merchandisers contact with the customer service to give their products with a Test Request form for testing. Then the customer service passes the products with Test Request Form to the Login department.

In the login department, the samples are sorted according to the Test Request Form, Sample Category and services like Regular, Express, Emergency, Shuttle and logged in. They give a login number in the Test Request Form by mentioning service. Generally the regular service is given by 5 days, Express by 3 days, Emergency by 2 days and Shuttle by 24 hrs. Data Entry service is also given by the Login Department. Then the samples are passed to the Test Assignment department.

Test Assign
Test Assignment is the most important department where the tests are assigned for a product. The tests are assigned according to the product category and Buyers Program manual or Protocols. Not a single extra test should be assigned or not a single test should be missed. The test Assignment is also done by department wise like Physical, Chemical, Colorfastness, FIbre etc. Washing instructions, testing methods etc. are also defined by this department. Then the samples are passed to the Big cut and Breakdown Department.

Big Cut and Breakdown
According to the Test Assignment, Big Cut prepare the samples for different technical departments like physical, Dimension, Fibre, Colorfastness, and Breakdown etc. and the samples are passed to the technical departments and also to Breakdown. The Breakdown department prepares the samples for Analytical or RSL tests and Also for PH and Formaldehyde tests.

Soft lines
There are many departments relate to Soft line. The departments are Physical, Wet and Dimension Lab, Colorfastness Lab, Flammability Lab, Fiber Lab.

Physical Lab
In the physical lab most of the Physical tests are done. Tensile and Tear strength of fabrics, Operability of zipper, strength and torque test for zipper, Pocket reinforcement, seam strength, attachment strength of garments etc. are done in the physical lab.

Flammability Lab
In Flammability lab Flammability of clothing textile, Children Sleepwear flammability etc. tests are done.

Colorfastness Lab
In colorfastness lab, Colorfastness to Light, Water, Sea water, Pool water, Chlorine Bleach, Dry Clean, Non-Chlorine Bleach, Perspiration, Saliva, Phenolic Yellowing, Dye transfer, Rubbing/Crocking etc. tests are done.

Fibre Lab
In fibre Lab, Fiber analysis, Exclusive of Decoration, Labeling review of fibre etc. tests are done.

Wet and Dimension Lab
In wet and Dimension Lab, Dimensional Changes, Appearance, Actual Laundering, Colorfastness to Commercial Dry Cleaning, Side seam Twisting, Durability after repeated Home Laundering, Iron Ability etc. are done in the Wet and Dimension lab.

Analytical or RSL (Restricted Substrates List)
In the RSL department, many tests like, Ph, Formaldehyde, Azo Dye Determination, Phthalates, California Proposition 65, CPSIA and Total Lead in Surface Coating and Substrates, Cadmium Content, Nickel Spot and Nickel Release test, Chromium 6, Soluble Heavy Metals Content etc. tests are done.

Reporting is the last and most important department in a 3rd party Textile Testing lab. There is a due date for every Test Request form and on that due date all the data for a specific Test Request Form come to the reporting department. The reporters work Buyer wise. They analyze the data and give Pass and Fail according to the Buyer requirements. They make the Report against a TRF release the report.

Saturday, October 8, 2016

Buyers Approved Textile Testing Laboratories

Most of the Garments and Textile industries around the world are 100% export oriented. They export their textile and garments products to other countries. While trendy designs and incomparable colors may preliminary sell a garment, it’s final the quality and safety that will confirm customer loyalty, generate repeat business, and maintain a brands value. That is why like other products, before exporting Textile Manufacturing Companies should have their testing reports to make sure of their qualities. So the manufacturers have to send their products sample to the third party laboratories to get their products certificate for exportation. These third party labs should be Buyers Approved. There are many third party labs around the world which are buyer approved. Such as Bureau Veritas, SGS, ITS etc.

Textile Testing Labs

The Following Labs Deliver Various Types of services like Auditing, Certification, Classification, Consulting, Inspection, Outsourcing, Quality Assurance and Quality Control, Testing and Analysis, Training, Constructions and Engineering, Food and Health Care, Transportation, Agriculture, Chemicals etc. but I’ll just discuss the Labs summary and TextileTesting
  • SGS
  • Bureau Veritas (BV)
  • Intertek Testing Service (ITS)
  • Modern Testing Services (MTS)
  • TÜV Rheinland.
  • UL
  • Consumer Testing Laboratories (CTL)
SGS is the world’s leading Inspection, Verification, Testing and Certification Company. It’s headquartered in Geneva, Switzerland.  Now has more than 85,000 employees and operates over 1,800 offices and laboratories worldwide. Its total revenue in 2015 was 5.412 billion Swiss Franc.

It provides services like Audit, Certification, Consultancy, Inspection, Outsourcing, Testing, Training, and Verification. It provides services to Agriculture & Food, Automotive, Aviation, Chemical, Construction, Consumer Goods & Retail, Energy, Finance, Industrial Manufacturing, Life Sciences, Logistics, Mining, Oil & Gas sectors.

SGS provides a wide range of services to the Textile and Apparel sector of the Softline and Accessories Industry. SGS services in the Textiles and Apparel sector include:
  • Audits and certification
  • Eco-design
  • Inspection
  • Testing                                
Bureau Veritas Consumer Product Service Ltd.
Bureau Veritas was founded in 1828 and is called the world leader in Certification, Inspection and Testing services. It’s headquarter is in Neuilly-sur-Seine, Paris, France. At the end of 2016, the group has more than 67,000 employees in more than 1,400 offices and laboratories located in 141 countries. The total revenue of this company was near about 4.6 billion Euros in 2015.

It provides the services like Auditing, Certification, Classification, Consulting, Inspection, Outsourcing, Quality Assurance and Quality Control, Testing, Analysis and training. The Large or small organizations like Aerospace, Agriculture and Food, Automotive, Chemicals and Petrochemicals, Construction and Real Estate, Government and Public, Industrial and Manufacturing, Marine, Mining, Oil and Gas, Power generation, Retail and Consumer Goods, Transport and Infrastructure can rely on Bureau Veritas to support them in protecting their respective brands, assets and business.

Bureau Veritas provides all types of Textile and Apparel testing services like Physical, RSL, Colorfastness, Dimension, Appearance, Flammability, Fibre and all relevant tests on items ranging from fabric samples to finished products for all age grades like Active wear, Swimwear, Beachwear, Exercise wear, Outerwear, Casual and Formal dresses, Trims and Accessories, Care labeling etc.

Intertek Testing Service
Intertek is the trusted provider of quality and safety solutions for many of the world’s leading brands and companies. It’s headquarter is in London, United Kingdom. It was founded in 1888 and now it has more than 40,000 employees in 1,000 locations in over 100 countries. In 2015 its total revenue was 2.167 billion Euros.

It provides services like Inspection, Product Testing and Certification. It provides services to Chemicals, Constructions and Engineering, Energy and Commodities, Food and Healthcare, Government and Trade, Products and Retail, Transportation sectors.

Intertek’s tailored solutions help brands, retailers and manufacturers of Textile, Apparel and Home Textile by ensuring the products performance, safety and quality. Intertek’s services in the field of Textile and Apparel are listed below:
  • Accessory Testing
  • Active wear Testing
  • Apparel Testing
  • Auditing and Systems Certification
  • Care Labeling
  • Chemical Smart Screening
  • Children’s Textile and Apparel Testing
  • CPSIA Testing
  • Footwear Testing
  • GB 18401 Testing
  • Softlines Testing
  • Trim Qualification Programme
Modern Testing Services
Modern Testing Services is a global and strategic partner for rapid, exact and cost effective quality assurance execution in the consumer products industry. MTS Headquarters, Eden Prairie, Minnesota U.S.A. MTS provides the services like Hazardous Chemical Management, Hardlines Testing, Softlines Testing, Toys, Arts and Craft Testing, Factory Compliance Audit and Inspection.

MTS has mass capabilities to cover such the areas like bulk fabric, preproduction garments, and children’s sleepwear testing. MTS also provides testing service for Home Textiles, Curtains, Bedding, Upholstery and many more. In addition with physical, RSL and Colorfastness it also provides testing services for performance and special claims. The most common testing criteria for Textile and Clothing are listed below:
  • Fibre Labeling
  • Care labeling and Care Label development
  • Performance abrasion and pilling
  • Seam strength tests
  • Colorfastness evaluations
  • Dimensional stability, Skewness, Stretch and Recovery
  • Fabric constructions, Fibre ID and Fabric weight
  • Flammability
  • Specials claims like Waterproof, Wind proof, Antibacterial, Antimicrobial
TÜV SÜD is one of the world's leading technical service organizations was founded in 1866 and Headquartered in Munich, Germany. Today it has more than 24,000 employees across more than 800 locations in the world. It has earned 2.2 billion Euros in 2015.
TÜV SÜD is a third party service corporation focusing on consulting, testing, certification and training. The most common testing features for Textile and Clothing are listed below:
  • California Proposition 65
  • Chemical Testing
  • Flammability
  • GB Testing
  • REACH Testing
  • RSL
TÜV Rheinland
TUV Rheinland was founded in 1872 and has grown from a local testing organization into one of the world’s leading testing service providers. Now days the company conducts with own companies globally. It is working for the quality and safety with new technologies in new sectors. The company has a workforce of 19,300 people in 69 countries all around the world. It has earned 1.88 billion Euros in 2015.

It provides services in the field of Construction and Real Estate, Consulting, Information Security, Education and Personnel, Management system, Materials Testing and Inspection, Occupational Safety and Health, Plants and Machinery, Product Testing, Vehicles and Traffic.

Today, near about 7,000 chemicals are used in textile and apparel, including dyeing agents, anti-creasing agent, or even to protect against mold during transport. It ensures the quality of products with their lab testing services. They have also an accredited auditing body which inspect and certify textiles for harmful substance content and any physical, qualitative characteristics.

UL is the first global exclusive safety science company that has gained progress for more than 120 years. It has more than 11,000 employees are trained by the UL mission to promote safe working and living environments for all people. Its core services are certification, testing, inspection, advisory and education.

UL quality assurance specialists are partner with textile and Clothing companies to address product regulatory requirements, performance and quality through textile testing and analysis. The most common testing features for Textile and Clothing are listed below:
  • Performance and Special Claim related tests
  • Physical and Mechanical testing
  • Chemical Analysis
  • Flammability
  • Home Textiles
  • Accessories
  • China GB testing
  • Fibre Analysis
  • Colorfastness
  • CPSC requirements for lead and Phthalates
  • California proposition 65
  • Dimensional Stability and Durability
Consumer Testing Laboratories
Consumer Product Laboratories was established in 1952 and is independent and privately owned Company. It is conducting all of its testing and relevant services from its own facilities.

CTL offers a wide range of testing services for any types of men's, women's and children's clothing and accessories such as casual, outerwear, swimwear, socks, handbags and gloves. CTL offers the following Textile and Apparel testing services:
  • Colorfastness
  • Dimensional Stability and Appearance Testing
  • Flammability
  • Fibre Composition
  • Fabric Construction
  • Physical
  • Total Lead
  • Phthalates
  • Formaldehyde
  • Nickel
  • PH
  • Toxics in Packaging

Saturday, July 16, 2016

Key Responsibilities of a Garments Merchandiser

Introduction to Garments Merchandising

At first we need to understand the term “Garments Merchandising”. “Garment” is an alternative term of apparel or cloth which we need to wear in our everyday life all over the world and “Merchandising” means developing, producing buying and selling of any goods or products or services for the local or international market. So, “Merchandising” is the bridge between the buyer and seller. If we combine this English two terms “Garments Merchandising” then the meaning of garments merchandising becomes like the following definition.

All the activities involved in procuring export order of any garment of any particular design for a specific quantity, analysis of the garment requires producing the garments, production scheduling & exporting the garments within fixed time frame may be called garments merchandising.
From the above definition of garments merchandising it can be clearly said that procuring a garments export order that is export L/C, production of those products as per buyers satisfaction within limited time is not an easy task. The activities which are involved in garments merchandising is normally done by an experienced & expert person called garments merchandiser. “Garments Merchandiser” is the most important key person of garments production & garments export sector.

Role of a Garments Merchandiser

The main role of Garments merchandiser is to collect garments export order (Export L/C), produce the garments, export the garments on time & earn profit for the organization. To perform those functions successfully need lots of knowledge, experience & tremendous effort for a Merchandiser.

Duties & responsibilities of a Garments Merchandiser

     ·         To procure or collect an export garments order.
     ·         To estimate the time action (T&A) plan to export of those garments as per limited fixed time.
     ·         To ensure the booking of raw materials (Fabric & other trims) placed to the supplier needed for the garments to manufacture and export.
     ·         Checking Proforma Invoice (PI) and term of payments properly given by the supplier.
     ·         Placing the PI for opening Back to Back L/C to give payment to the supplier.
     ·         To monitor the collection of raw material as per the T&A plan.
     ·         To ensure the quantity & quality of raw material collected from supplier.
     ·         Following the sampling process strongly as the export order totally depends on it.
     ·         To select the garments factory if needed.
     ·         To monitor the garments production progress as per T&A plan.
     ·         To monitor the desired quality level of the produced garments.
     ·         To monitor garments packing instruction.
     ·         To monitor the shipment arrangements as per T&A plan.
     ·         To maintain continuous liaison with buyer.

Asst. Merchandiser
Ha-Meem Group

You may Like also: Merchandising: The magic word

Saturday, June 18, 2016

Garment Washing Symbols and Meanings

When we buy a garment it looks nice and ok but when we use it, it becomes dirty day by day and becomes unfit to wear. So to wear it again, we’ve to clean it. Then the questions come in our mind that how we will clean it and iron it so that the dresses become ready to wear. Then we search for garments care instructions. The care instructions are given by the care symbols attached with the garment.

Clothing Care Label

Garment Care Label is a label by which we can take care of a garment. In a garment care label we can see many care instructions. When we want to clean a garment we should follow the care instructions. It defines the machine wash should be warm, normal cycle or the garment should be tumble dry low or just tumble dry etc.

The apparel manufacturers attach the care symbols in care label which suits the best for a garment. Before attaching a care label the apparel is tested under different tests for care instructions like Dimensional stability, Appearance after laundering or dry cleaning, Colorfastness to Actual Laundering or Dry Cleaning, Colorfastness to laundering: Accelerated, Colorfastness to crocking, Bleaching and Ironing. When the garment passes under these tests, the care instructions are fixed for the garment.

Now I’ll describe the Garment Washing Symbols and Meanings in AATCC methods as below Images –

Washing Care Symbols and their meanings –

Apparel Washing Care Symbols

Bleaching Care Symbols and their meanings –

Garment Bleaching Care Symbols

Drying Care Symbols and their meanings –

Garment Drying Care symbols

Ironing Care Symbols and their meanings –

Garment Ironing Care Symbols

Dry Cleaning Care Symbols and their meanings –

Garment Dry Cleaning Care Symbols