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Wednesday, August 26, 2015

Fabric Consumption per dozen of a Shirt

To calculate the fabric consumption per dozen of a shirt, we need to calculate the fabric consumption of a shirt for particular size of the garment. The common sizes for a shirt are small (S), Medium (M), large (L), Extra large (XL), and Double extra large (XXL).

Fabric Consumption

Measurement chart may be supplied by the buyer or you can avail standard measurement chart. Here, for the determination of fabric consumption for a shirt, measurement chart for shirt supplied by a buyer is considered and shown in the following table:

Measurement Chart of a Shirt

Measurements
S
M
L
XL
XXL
Tolerance  (cm)
A
½ Chest
52
55
58
61
64
± 0.5
B
½ Waist (44cm from HSP)
49
52
55
58
61
± 0.5
C
­½ Bottom
52
55
58
61
64
± 0.5
D
Body length (From HSP)
72
74
76
78
80
± 1
E
Body length (From center back)





± 1
F
Shoulder length
15.5
16
16.5
17
17.5
± 0.5
G
Shoulder across
46
48
50
52
54
± 0.5
H
Arm hole straight
22
23
24
25
26
± 0.5
I
½ upper arm
20
21
22
23
24
± 0.5
J
½ Elbow (26cm from sleeve opening)
16.5
17
17.5
18
18.5
± 0.5
K
Sleeve length
64
65
66
67
68
± 1
L
½ Sleeve opening
11
11.5
12
12.5
13
± 0.5
M
Cuff/Rib height
7.5
7.5
7.5
7.5
7.5
± 0.5
N
Neck width
13.5
14.5
15.5
16.5
17.5
± 1
O
Front neck drop
10
10
10.5
10.5
11
± 0.5
P
Back neck drop





± 0.5
Q
Collar height (in center back)
7.5
7.5
7.5
7.5
7.5
± 0.5
R
Collar band
3
3
3
3
3
± 0.5
S
Collar point
7
7
7
7
7
± 0.5
T
Placket width





± 0.5
U
Collar band length
39
41
43
45
47
± 1
V
Back yoke height
11.5
11.5
11.5
11.5
11.5
± 0.5











For medium size (M)
For Body Section:
{Body length (From HSP) + Allowance} {1/2 X Chest + Allowance} X 2
= (74cm + 5cm) (55cm + 6cm) X 2
= 79cm X 61cm X 2
= 9638 cm2

Sleeve Section:
= (Sleeve length + Allowance) X (Arm hole straight + Allowance) X 2 X 2
= (65cm + 4cm) X (23cm + 3cm) X 4
= 69cm X 26cm X 4
= 7176 cm2

Collar and Collar band:
(Collar band length + Allowance) X (Collar band + Collar point + Allowance) X 2
= (41cm + 3cm) X (3cm + 7cm + 4cm) X 2
= 1232 cm2

Pocket:
(Pocket length + Allowance) X (Pocket width + Allowance)
= (14cm + 3cm) X (12cm + 2cm)
= 238cm2

Extra Yoke:
(Shoulder across + Allowance) X (Yoke height + Allowance)
= (48cm + 4cm) X ((11.5cm + 4cm)
= 52cm X 15.5cm
= 806cm2

Now, the fabric consumption per shirt will be
                        = 9638 + 7176 + 1232 + 238 + 806 cm2
                        = 19090 cm2
                        = 1.91 m2
The fabric width may vary to a wide range but for making shirt, common fabric width is 110cm. If 147cm width of the fabric is used to manufacture the shirt, then the fabric consumption per shift will be
                        = 19090cm2/147cm
                        = 129.86cm
                        = 1.298m
                        = 1.30m/pc
To convert the fabric consumption per dozen, size ratio should be taken into account. Here an assumed example is given below:
Small ……………………… = 2pc X 1.28m = 2.56
Medium ………………….. = 3pc X 1.30m = 3.90
Large ……………………… = 3pc X 1.32m = 3.96
X-Large …………………... = 2pc X 1.34m = 2.68
XX-Large …………………. = 2pc X 1.36m = 2.72
…………………………………………………………
                                                                   = 15.82m/dozen

It is calculated that the fabric consumption per dozen for the said shirt is 15.82m. Actual consumption of the shirt may be slightly less than the calculated consumption when marker for the shirt will be done. When fabric order quantity will be determined, fabric defect, fabric wastage, and garment wastage must be kept in mind.